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Monday, February 20, 2012

The City that Water Built

Evian, France
Known for its designer water, Evian is a charming little town that sits at the edge of Lake Geneva.  Today we left early in the morning to catch the ferry that leaves Lausanne, Switzerland to Evian, France. The ferry runs about every hour and a half during the winter and more often in summer, I believe.
Leaving Lausanne

Once again, we were at the mercy of extremely cold temperatures and the French aversion to winter. It seems that these little French cities that we visit are pretty shuttered during the winter months. Normally, you can tour the Evian bottling plant and the specially designed water gardens but those places were closed today.
We made our first stop at the TI where we expected to hire a tour guide for a city tour (per Rick Steves). Unfortunately the teenage girl manning the station did not speak much English but did give us a map and told us the two English words she did know..."walk" "alone"... So out we went!
We carefully toured the historical aspects of the city, a former military installation of the Savoy family during the Middle Ages. The streets are narrow and charming with brightly painted picturesque buildings.
The archway of a 15th c alleyway

The alley from behind

Charming streets of Evian
However, the best part of the city was seeing all of the spontaneous fountains that run throughout the city. As we walked by, it was common to see locals stopping their cars and filling up large containers with water or construction workers filling up their own bottles. The water is free and flows freely for all!
A man filling up his container with water

Jeff couldn't resist...
Having such convenient access to Lake Geneva, Evian became an important trade route and market town during the Middle Ages. The market square is still a vibrant resource today and houses many of the shops of the village.
The old market square as it is today. You can see the Lake in the distance.

The building on the left had been recently damaged by fire.
After our walking tour alone, we returned to the TI and hung out in the warmth, waiting for some of the restaurants to open. We walked back over to Market Square for a pizza lunch.
Before our trip, I read many things about traveling in France. Many people and books advised that the French were rude and anti-tourist, especially if you did not try to speak the language. I have to say that that has not been the case for us. Every waiter, taxi driver, tour guide, etc that we have come in contact with has been helpful, polite, and sympathetic toward us. Maybe it is because of our children, or maybe it is because French people are really nice at heart....whatever the case, our waiter today was a prime example of the way we have been treated. Like most, he was amused at our ragged attempts at his language, butchering it all the way, but still he was kind and helpful, playing jokes with our kids and helping us limp through the menu. Our meal was delicious and the atmosphere charming.

Jeff ordered this beer (accidentally!) called a Monaco. I made fun of him mercilessly because it was pink! However, after tasting it, I shut up quickly as it was soo good! I can't wait to figure out how to make these!
After a warm, filling lunch and frigid day in Evian, we high-tailed it back to the ferry where we returned to Lausanne.
The girls on the ferry with the Alps in the background
It was such a beautiful sight coming back to Lausanne! The sun was glistening off the water, kids were playing on the playground, vendors were out on the pier, the ice cream station was open, roller skaters were skating in the park....so different from France where everything is closed and people are hiding from the cold!
Lausanne-Ouchy Marina. The fountain is starting to melt and the temperature is starting to rise. Today there were lots of people out and about!
 Evian was a sweet, charming little city and someday we will return (in the summer) to see just how they bottle that water!

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