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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Four Castles

Sion, Switzerland
Today we left the Lake Geneva area and the canton of Vaud, and drove east to Valais. You can see that Valais is a special area because it lies in a valley between tall, snow capped mountains. It is also famous for its most well-known mountain, the Matterhorn.
Our route from Lausanne to Sion.
Sion is the capitol of Valais and is known as the oldest city in Switzerland, and is also known for its four castles. Yesterday Katie told us she wanted to see more castles so this had to be next on our list! We rolled into the city late morning and hit up the TI for some maps. A very helpful (and very pregnant!) lady obliged with some directions and maps to get us started.
Immediately we headed up the hill to check out the castles. They are so prolific that you can see them on the hill from the autoroute and anywhere in the city.
Looking up to Castle Valere from the city streets
Castle of the Majorie, now houses an art museum. We didn't get to go in here, but I think it's Swiss folk art that looks really interesting. Would have liked to have seen it.

As we walked through the city on our way up the hill, we passed many little shops getting ready for the parade.
Rue des Chateaux, the uphill street that climbs to the castles



At the top of Rue des Chateaux

The right hand side is Castle Tourbillon, built in the 13/14th c by a Bishop who lived here. To the left is the ruins of Castle Montorge built by a Count of Savoy. For years and years the Count and the Bishop argued over the castle and finally it was burned down during one of the wars. (ha, not sure which one! Not too up on Swiss history!)


Entrance to Castle Valere
Closer view of the ruins

Natalie in the castle's main entrance. This castle has been completely restored and a history museum occupies its buildings (to the right)


 From the castle's courtyard at the top of the hill, the views are breathtaking! The whole valley is laid out before you with snow capped mountains on each side and sprawling city on the valley floor. AMAZING VIEWS!


Here is a great view of the top side of the Castle of the Majorie.

Amazing views of the valley through which we came. Absolutely stunning, can't miss views!
 The history museum in the castle had artifacts from the local area that dated back to 4,000 BC all the way into the Middle Ages. They also had displays that depict the past, present, and future of Sion, drawing the connection that it was a market town (during the Middle Ages) where people passed through, not necessarily stayed too long. Now it is the same way with skiers and tourists. They displayed snow making equipment demonstrating that still, efforts are made to keep "tourists" or non-residents here for longer periods of time.
After a nourishing and warm quiche in the museum cafeteria we moved up to the stone church. This church really deserves its own post, but I'm really tired so I just have to say that I have never been in a church like this one. Some churches (like Notre Dame in Paris) are stunningly beautiful, some churches (like EHCC at home) are comfortable, but the church here has a feeling in it that cannot be described. As soon as you enter the temperature drops 10 degrees and through your misty breath you can look up to view the huge Gothic archways. The church is small, nothing like the large cathedrals of the city, but being built sometime around the 1200's, it exudes its antiquity. The deadly silence inside adds to the feeling you get and when you pass through the glass doors to the inner chapel, you feel God's presence. There were several people worshipping in there so it was inappropriate to capture any pictures; however, when I went in to worship, I did snap a photo using my iphone. I simply cannot do this holy place any justice with my words or my pictures. I can only say that it is a very special place and I can see why these ladies made the climb up here to worship.


The church houses the oldest playable organ in the world. You can see its size in relation to the man standing on the floor beneath.

The inner chapel of the church, named a minor basilica by Pope John Paul II

 We left the church and ambled back down the hill to take a tour of the city itself. As soon as we started getting closer to the city, we realized we were missing out on something loud and fun! We could hear muffled sounds from a microphone and lots of people talking. Upon reaching the street we realized we had missed the Carnaval parade! How had we missed all of those signs!?!?! The streets were thick with confetti and costumed children (and parents)! We immediately ditched our city tour plans and joined in on all of the fun. We bought the kids some balloons, played some carnival type games, and wandered through a magic show for kids. We even saw a truck with a large cannon that was shooting the confetti all over the city! I have never seen so much confetti EVER! Here are some pics from our short Carnaval experience:


All of the children were dressed up with their faces painted like Halloween

The girls with some overpriced balloons. You can see the kids in the background and the confetti on the ground. I believe we paid the "American" price for these, but the girls were happy. ;)

Even the adults were in full attire!


Mom and Dad enjoying some vin chaud (hot wine)
More revelers
By the time the crowds starting breaking up, it was time for us to head back "home" to the boys. The city of Sion is a really fun place and I would highly recommend a visit! There is so much to do in this city! There are many hiking paths and picnic areas up by the castles, vineyard tours with wine tasting, a historic city walking tour that includes several notable buildings, art galleries and museums, lots of quaint cafes and charming streets, plus during the spring and summer bikes are given free of charge for the whole day! What a cool town!

Monday, February 20, 2012

The City that Water Built

Evian, France
Known for its designer water, Evian is a charming little town that sits at the edge of Lake Geneva.  Today we left early in the morning to catch the ferry that leaves Lausanne, Switzerland to Evian, France. The ferry runs about every hour and a half during the winter and more often in summer, I believe.
Leaving Lausanne

Once again, we were at the mercy of extremely cold temperatures and the French aversion to winter. It seems that these little French cities that we visit are pretty shuttered during the winter months. Normally, you can tour the Evian bottling plant and the specially designed water gardens but those places were closed today.
We made our first stop at the TI where we expected to hire a tour guide for a city tour (per Rick Steves). Unfortunately the teenage girl manning the station did not speak much English but did give us a map and told us the two English words she did know..."walk" "alone"... So out we went!
We carefully toured the historical aspects of the city, a former military installation of the Savoy family during the Middle Ages. The streets are narrow and charming with brightly painted picturesque buildings.
The archway of a 15th c alleyway

The alley from behind

Charming streets of Evian
However, the best part of the city was seeing all of the spontaneous fountains that run throughout the city. As we walked by, it was common to see locals stopping their cars and filling up large containers with water or construction workers filling up their own bottles. The water is free and flows freely for all!
A man filling up his container with water

Jeff couldn't resist...
Having such convenient access to Lake Geneva, Evian became an important trade route and market town during the Middle Ages. The market square is still a vibrant resource today and houses many of the shops of the village.
The old market square as it is today. You can see the Lake in the distance.

The building on the left had been recently damaged by fire.
After our walking tour alone, we returned to the TI and hung out in the warmth, waiting for some of the restaurants to open. We walked back over to Market Square for a pizza lunch.
Before our trip, I read many things about traveling in France. Many people and books advised that the French were rude and anti-tourist, especially if you did not try to speak the language. I have to say that that has not been the case for us. Every waiter, taxi driver, tour guide, etc that we have come in contact with has been helpful, polite, and sympathetic toward us. Maybe it is because of our children, or maybe it is because French people are really nice at heart....whatever the case, our waiter today was a prime example of the way we have been treated. Like most, he was amused at our ragged attempts at his language, butchering it all the way, but still he was kind and helpful, playing jokes with our kids and helping us limp through the menu. Our meal was delicious and the atmosphere charming.

Jeff ordered this beer (accidentally!) called a Monaco. I made fun of him mercilessly because it was pink! However, after tasting it, I shut up quickly as it was soo good! I can't wait to figure out how to make these!
After a warm, filling lunch and frigid day in Evian, we high-tailed it back to the ferry where we returned to Lausanne.
The girls on the ferry with the Alps in the background
It was such a beautiful sight coming back to Lausanne! The sun was glistening off the water, kids were playing on the playground, vendors were out on the pier, the ice cream station was open, roller skaters were skating in the park....so different from France where everything is closed and people are hiding from the cold!
Lausanne-Ouchy Marina. The fountain is starting to melt and the temperature is starting to rise. Today there were lots of people out and about!
 Evian was a sweet, charming little city and someday we will return (in the summer) to see just how they bottle that water!

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Not in SoCal anymore!

Snow!
You wouldn't know it by looking right now, but a few days ago we got an inch or two of snow and it dusted everything with a beautiful layer of white powder. Nikki and Ryan have an awesome yard with lots of beautiful trees and plants as well as a small pasture where the cows come to graze in the spring. I've been meaning to share some of these pictures from their yard during the snow, especially for our southern California friends!
These beautiful views are all from the windows of the house! We enjoy sitting here in the warmth looking out of the windows at the stunning views.


Connor and Aiden's playhouse and part of the pond. The kids were skating around on this pond the other day.

I think this is Wysteria, correct me if I'm wrong. The birds were still feeding from this feeder, even in the snow. I guess they are used to this weather!


The view from the bathroom haha. Isn't it wonderful?


Got Food?

Market Day!
Today is Saturday here in Switzerland and we set off in search of a farmer's market. We headed down to the old part of Lausanne to Place de la Riponne where my friend told me there is a market on Saturdays and Wednesdays.
Sure enough, the place was packed with little booths, tents, and people. In fact, Saturday is also the day for the flea market which occupied one half of the plaza. It was kind of like a giant yard sale but there were some cool finds there as well.
Today was one of those days where pictures tell 1000 words, so I'll just let you enjoy some of the sights we experienced.

There were loads and loads of cheese vendors (not surprisingly!)

Cheese-we didn't buy any cheese today as we have been having it everyday and still have some left from Wednesday
The booths that sold bread were the best and most beautiful. We picked up some croissants jambon for lunch and they were tasty!

There was bread in every size, shape, and color. There was even a woman there with a hot oven baking fresh pizzas and tarts on the spot. Jeff and the kids got a mini pizza. They were delicious and nothing like home because the strong flavors of the cheese made them very unique.
mushrooms

fresh produce abounded!

The meat was beautiful (and some of it confused me) but it seemed to be very pricey.

A look at the flea market portion of the plaza

beautiful scarves in every color and design

We saw many, many pets here. Some of them were being walked by patrons and some belonged to vendors and were bundled up like this one. So cute.

Why, yes, I'll take all three! Merci!

It was common to see these babies dressed warmly in little sleeping bag type blankets. It was also common to see them hanging out alone like this while mom or dad shopped at the vendor booths.

We thought the market was only in the plaza but then when we walked further down into the town we saw the booths winding through the streets of Old Lausanne.

Oh yes, we got some of these for sure. :)

The market wasn't just for food! There were floral booths, beer tasting, and musicians as well.

This shop was PACKED. You can see why.


Flowers made from candy.
 
This woman owns the candy shoppe. She is from South Africa and makes little animals and flowers from the candy she sells. We had a lot of fun speaking with her and helping her make this little sheep. She was such a nice lady.
Well, after our shopping excursion, we feel well prepared for Sunday, the day when stores and shops are closed here in CH. I hope you enjoy our pictures as much as we enjoyed the market!